As the topic says, how do you install an active repeater?
Just finished installing 3 filters in the fusebox and the next step is to install the active repeater.
What I was wondering is how others installed their repeater. Did you install an extra 3-phase earth-leak switch and a 3P+N fuse and attached the repeater to it? (This is what I intend to do) Or did you connect the repeater to existing fuses?
Als het niet gerepareerd kan worden dan is het niet kapot!
Active repeater: How to install
Moderator: Digit
Active repeater: How to install
Only single phase here, so can't help you with that.
BTW, what's the advantage of the way you intend to do it?
BTW, what's the advantage of the way you intend to do it?
Active repeater: How to install
Jfn,
I've installed a 3 phase earth leak switch without fuses before the FKX active repeater of Xanura.
DMB
I've installed a 3 phase earth leak switch without fuses before the FKX active repeater of Xanura.
DMB
Active repeater: How to install
The reason to protect the repeater with its own earth-leak switch and fuse is that should the repeater start behaving bad it will only affect the repeater and not the rest of the installation.
I ordered a 3-phase earth-leak switch and a 4-phase fuse and will mount the repeater behind it (A 4-phase fuse works the same as a 3P+N but instead also has overcurrent protection on the N).
Should I decide to trade-in my gas stove for ceramic/induction cooking I have the fuse-box already fitted with the proper equipment.
Als het niet gerepareerd kan worden dan is het niet kapot!
I ordered a 3-phase earth-leak switch and a 4-phase fuse and will mount the repeater behind it (A 4-phase fuse works the same as a 3P+N but instead also has overcurrent protection on the N).
Should I decide to trade-in my gas stove for ceramic/induction cooking I have the fuse-box already fitted with the proper equipment.
Als het niet gerepareerd kan worden dan is het niet kapot!
Active repeater: How to install
I installed mine behind a 3-phase fuse. I don't really se a need for a separate 3-phase earth-leak switch for it. If it *does* trip your regular earth-leak switch you should get the unit exchanged immediately. (And I think that it in 99% of these cases would be enough with a 1-phase earth-leak switch, since it only is one of the phases that serves the actual repeater.)
//Markus
//Markus
Active repeater: How to install
A seperate earth-leak switch is not really necessary. I could also use the other earth-leak switches (I have 3 of them in the fusebox, each protecting 4, 3 and 3 fuses respectively). However, regulations demand that an earth-leak switch may only support a maximum of 4 fuses. So I am one earth-leak connection short to enable the connection of a 3-phase fuse.
As the repeater is a 3-phase unit (3P+N), a fuse is needed that switches off all three phases (and the N) at the same time in case of a problem.
This made me decide to fit an extra 3P+N earth-leak switch in the fusebox and connect the fuse to it. I added an extra box containing the X10 filters, so there is plenty of room for this stuff and at a little over 60 euro for the brand-new switch + fuse I am also ready for the future (ceramic / induction cooking).
<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"><i>Originally posted by Dowser</i>
<br />I installed mine behind a 3-phase fuse. I don't really se a need for a separate 3-phase earth-leak switch for it. If it *does* trip your regular earth-leak switch you should get the unit exchanged immediately. (And I think that it in 99% of these cases would be enough with a 1-phase earth-leak switch, since it only is one of the phases that serves the actual repeater.)
//Markus
<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></font id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">
Als het niet gerepareerd kan worden dan is het niet kapot!
As the repeater is a 3-phase unit (3P+N), a fuse is needed that switches off all three phases (and the N) at the same time in case of a problem.
This made me decide to fit an extra 3P+N earth-leak switch in the fusebox and connect the fuse to it. I added an extra box containing the X10 filters, so there is plenty of room for this stuff and at a little over 60 euro for the brand-new switch + fuse I am also ready for the future (ceramic / induction cooking).
<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"><i>Originally posted by Dowser</i>
<br />I installed mine behind a 3-phase fuse. I don't really se a need for a separate 3-phase earth-leak switch for it. If it *does* trip your regular earth-leak switch you should get the unit exchanged immediately. (And I think that it in 99% of these cases would be enough with a 1-phase earth-leak switch, since it only is one of the phases that serves the actual repeater.)
//Markus
<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></font id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">
Als het niet gerepareerd kan worden dan is het niet kapot!
Active repeater: How to install
I mounted the 3-phase active repeater today. It works. Just to test it I used an extension cord to connect the computer-interface to a different phase. When sending the right command it continued to turn on/off the lights.
The combination of the RF 4060E mini-remote (http://x10-hk.com/store/product_info.ph ... ucts_id=65) and the 4023 tranceiver module (http://x10-hk.com/store/product_info.ph ... ucts_id=29) do not seem to support a 3-phase network.
When moving the tranceiver module to a different phase then where the modules I want to control are located, nothing happens.. When pressing a button on the mini-remote I can hear the tranceiver picking up the RF signal, but the computer-interface does not show any packet coming through.
Other remotes have the option to be configured for a 3-phase system and it seems that the 4060E lacks the option to set bit 6 of the command-byte in a PLCBUS frame.
I can however, control the appliance-module that is built-in into the tranceiver through the computer-interface, but only when I set bit 6 to active.
So make sure when buying a remote that it supports a 3-phase powerline.
Furthermore: When I operate a light-switch, I do not see the micro-module generating a PLCBUS packet. I would expect that when I press a light-switch, the micro-module transmits a PLCBUS signal that is picked-up by the computer-interface. This way I know that the status of a switch has changed. The only way to learn what the status of a switch is, is to poll it and ask what its status is. Has anyone been able to configure a PLCBUS module in such a way that it 'pushes' any status change onto the powerline?
Als het niet gerepareerd kan worden dan is het niet kapot!
The combination of the RF 4060E mini-remote (http://x10-hk.com/store/product_info.ph ... ucts_id=65) and the 4023 tranceiver module (http://x10-hk.com/store/product_info.ph ... ucts_id=29) do not seem to support a 3-phase network.
When moving the tranceiver module to a different phase then where the modules I want to control are located, nothing happens.. When pressing a button on the mini-remote I can hear the tranceiver picking up the RF signal, but the computer-interface does not show any packet coming through.
Other remotes have the option to be configured for a 3-phase system and it seems that the 4060E lacks the option to set bit 6 of the command-byte in a PLCBUS frame.
I can however, control the appliance-module that is built-in into the tranceiver through the computer-interface, but only when I set bit 6 to active.
So make sure when buying a remote that it supports a 3-phase powerline.
Furthermore: When I operate a light-switch, I do not see the micro-module generating a PLCBUS packet. I would expect that when I press a light-switch, the micro-module transmits a PLCBUS signal that is picked-up by the computer-interface. This way I know that the status of a switch has changed. The only way to learn what the status of a switch is, is to poll it and ask what its status is. Has anyone been able to configure a PLCBUS module in such a way that it 'pushes' any status change onto the powerline?
Als het niet gerepareerd kan worden dan is het niet kapot!