Hi guys,
I'm new here, but I'm also interested in what comes out of the Stedin Smart Meter.
Stedin installed the Landis + Gyr ZCF120ABd meter last week, and it comes with an P1 port, although the installer couldn't tell what the port was for, nor is there any information in a manual of some sort.
This is is pic of the meter:
And here you have the P1 port, on the right:
I wiped out the serial numbers, if you don't mind
As you can see, it is almost identical to the Landis & Gyr ZMF120AC, but with addition of "DSMR 2.2+" text on it (hey, should this not be DSMR 4.0 ?) and the p1 port, a normal accessible RJ11 connector, on it.
Thanks to the info from Joost, I connected the stuff using home made connector:
ftdi ttl-232r-5v USB on one side, RJ11 (using a "normal telephone plug", which means pin 1 and 6 are not connected) on the other.
Rewired red (=5 volt) to RJ11 pin 2 (to keep request line high), black (ground) to RJ11 pin 3 and yellow (rxd) to RJ11 pin 5 (data).
Reprogrammed the chip to invert RXD line ( because
DSMR specs states: SPACE “0” as > 4V , MARK “1” as < 1 V)
Plugged the thing in a router with openWRT on it, and this is the output I get, when setting the /dev/ttyUSB0 to 9600 baud, 7 data bit, even parity, 1 stop bit.
This is an example of the 'telegram' I get, every 10 seconds:
Code: Select all
/XMX5XMXABCD1000..deleted serial..
0-0:96.1.1(4B3832..deleted serial..)
1-0:1.8.1(000149.539*kWh)
1-0:1.8.2(000153.153*kWh)
1-0:2.8.1(000000.000*kWh)
1-0:2.8.2(000000.000*kWh)
0-0:96.14.0(0001)
1-0:1.7.0(00000.84*kW)
1-0:2.7.0(00000.00*kW)
0-0:17.0.0(999*A)
0-0:96.3.10(1)
0-0:96.13.1()
0-0:96.13.0()
!
I tried with a "cheap" USB - to -Serial cable first, soldered an invertor chip on the RXD line, this will cost around 3 or 4 euro's, but the resulting signal was very, very terrible and distorted, when looking to the result on my scope. Therefore, I choose to use the FTDI one instead, although those will cost me around 16 euro's. Those cables can be reprogrammed to invert and do offer a much better quality.
In response to Freemann;
I guess the 3.3V version will work too (1 euro cheaper), but since specifications clearly states "SPACE “0” as > 4V , MARK “1” as < 1 V", a legimate "0" should be 4V or higher, not 3.3V or higher...
Regards,
Remco